A Women's Retreat in the South of France: Indulgence? Self-care? How 'Bout a Bit of Both?

Five Days of Good Fun, New Friends, and Just a Lil' Food Poisoning

Salut darlings,

I’m just back from a women’s retreat at a breezy villa en Provence, and what can I say?

The September sunshine. The wonderful women. The beautiful villages fleuris with their pastel stone maisons. The time to rest, to laugh, to share ideas and inspirations. It didn’t disappoint. And it reminds me that I am so happy to have been able to spend the time and resources to restore my spirit and my creativity.

It also reminds me of last week’s poll results, where 38% of you who responded said that you struggle to do something big for yourself, like pay for a course, a spa weekend, or a far-flung French retreat. I too struggle, but the benefits I am still experiencing from this gamble I took on myself are well worth it. I know that it has already helped me, and will continue to bring good things.

Doing what we flâneuses love most--wandering happily, this time in the charming villages of Provence

I hope you can prioritize yourself in some special way—in whatever way works for you—and fuel yourself up with what you need to live the life you really want.

You deserve that.

Repeat: you really do deserve that.

Side Note! I haven’t forgotten to tell you about the food poisoning. If you’re interested, keep on a-scrolling. The end result is interesting.

But first, here’s a little video with some sunny highlights from a week in Provence…

How the French Women’s Retreat Unfolded

First off, it actually wasn’t a French women’s retreat. It was a women’s retreat, in France. Everyone there was American (all six of us, and the three organizers), from a variety of spots. I was the only attendee who currently lives in France.

The Goal: get more joy in our lives.

The Setting: a restored pale rose stone villa at the end of a long gravelly lane lined with olive trees.

We arrived to our Provence retreat late on a Saturday afternoon, just in time for l’apéro sur la terrasse and a little get-to-know-you. After a delightful dîner (dinner) catered by a local restaurant, we retired to our pretty rooms (chosen—for fairness—by number from a bowl of folded papers). I loved mine with its blue chairs and window giving directly onto the ripe peach sunrise over the Luberon. You can see it in the video above.

Fun fact: In French, I haven’t been able to find the right word to describe a retreat that is not a work-related retreat, which is called “un séminaire.” The word “retraite” is used to mean “retirement” en français, so it’s not quite right. If anyone here has more intel, do tell in the comments!

Each day we had an activity—visits to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Gordes, Roussillon, and Lourmarin, where we strolled through brocante markets (fleamarkets) and food stalls and tried on de nouvelles tenues (new outfits) in sweet little shops like this one, with its adorably chic shopkeeper-stylist. She could’ve (and did) sell us anything she liked. Case in point: I bought this waterproof skirt.

Our home for the retreat, La Bastide du Chat Blanc. On my bed you see (another) vintage lace tablecloth that I found at a Sunday brocante. Don't tell Monsieur B!

The Most Beautiful Luxury Hotel in Provence?

We had a surprise tour—and a scrumptious lunch on the lawn—at the magnificent Domaine des Andéols, created by the absolute genius Olivier Massart, legendary haute couture fashion show visionary. Do not look at their website unless you have at least a half an hour—it will hypnotize you and you’ll miss a Zoom meeting.

Turns out, Olivier Massart is a local in Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt, and at this domaine incontournable (not-to-be-missed estate), he and his wife Patrizia have masterfully combined art, nature, agriculture, winemaking and high hospitality all in one unforgettable place, where I will do my best to return one day for a very special occasion and where I might even dine at a table perched high in a 400-year-old platane tree (Monsieur B, are you reading this? hee hee).

Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt, a village in Provence

Living a Creative Life in France

Another highlight was a cooking (and eating and smiling) experience at the home of two inspirational people—Cindy and Nicky Mackintosh. She’s American, he’s English (and a Cordon Bleu-trained chef), and they’ve had a bunch of restaurants and lived plusieurs (multiple) exciting lives together autour du monde (around the world).

The marvelous Cindy Mackintosh at her stunning home in Provence, with flowers and vegetables from her garden, and wearing one of the pretty jackets she makes from antique fabrics

It’s almost unbelievable to think that when they bought their property eight years ago, neither their home nor the gardens were there. They made it all. The house is brand new, but designed in an older style, with colorful tiles, vintage objects and rugs, giant doors to throw open onto the terrace, and thoughtful details that kept me wandering around the whole time. I absolutely loved Cindy’s atelier (workshop) where she crafts des tabliers (aprons) according to vintage designs, et des petites vestes (little jackets) out of Indian fabrics.

To quote one of my fabulous fellow retreaters, "Send for my things!"

As for Nicky, he of course cooks anything and everything while being totally charming, and he has a collection of copper pots that I covet, and he told me exactly where in Paris to get my vintage pots re-tinned (more on that later). And oh, why not? He also writes geopolitical thrillers for fun!

These two embody an abundance of warm, effortless style, real kindness and creative inspiration that I have rarely seen in a couple. It had a very deep effect on me. I want to live like them—gently, bountifully, with respect and care for une vie artistique (an artistic life) intertwined with nature. #seriouslythoughcouplegoals

New Friends, Deep Conversations

Each evening we had dinner together in our villa, and we talked. One night there were vision boards (mine was focused on creative energy and having an atelier of my own), and at table, there was often a question to ponder and discuss.

One of my favorites: What do you need to rethink or remove from your life right now to make room for more joy?

There were laughs, there were tears, there were hugs and cheers, and there were new bonds made here and there. There was also a lot of rosé, hooray! And I even had the pleasure of sharing a post-retreat lunch in Paris with one fabulous new friend.

So What About the Food Poisoning?

Well, I think it was certainly my fault because as far as I know, no one else was ill, and because I might’ve eaten the two-day-old unrefrigerated leftover Truffled Crôque-monsieur I’d squirreled home from lunch and hoarded in a drawer in my room with other snacks au cas où (just in case).

Anyhoo, I started feeling mighty poorly in the morning just before leaving. Could it have been an allergic reaction to having to depart Provence? The effect on my digestive system was unfortunate because my travels home required:

• 1 1/2 hour van ride to the train station at Aix-en-Provence

• 3 hour train ride on the TGV to Paris

• 50 minute Uber ride across Paris

I hadn’t said anything to the ladies in the villa because I was sure it was nothing. Until it wasn’t, and by then I was already long gone.

At home I collapsed and did take a nap to try to rally, but when Monsieur B and I found ourselves on the packed métro later that evening à l’heure de pointe (at rush hour), I held onto his arm and looked up at him, and he said my face turned the exact shade of a sheet of printer paper. I then said we needed to step out of the train immediately. Uh-oh!

The good news—not only was I feeling all better after just 24 hours; but in fact as a direct result of that quick illness, I was transformed yet again. I was reminded how much I like mint tea. I was reminded how sweet and caring my husband is, and I was reminded how lucky I am to have had a chance to reset, to restore, to recalibrate and reinvent my next chapter.

A Few Fun Bits and Bobs

If you’re looking for an autumn playlist de ouf (really cool) for your next get-together, check out my newest. I’m calling it Les Feuilles qui tombent (Falling Leaves)

Vins Divins (Divine Wines) and Getting Fluent in French

If you’re looking for French white wines and you don’t know where to start, check out my newest article for My French Life™ magazine. It’s all about using what you already like to help you find French whites that might agree with you. If you check it out, let me know what you think! I also wrote a piece on the efforts required to become fluent in French, which has never been an easy journey in my case.

Dans Ma Petite Cuisine Française (In my Little French Kitchen)

If you’d like to cook something tasty this weekend, check out last week’s Sweet and Savory Fig Tart, which has gotten some nice comments! Or make a cozy, cheesy Tartiflette or go hog-wild and fry or bake an entire Camembert—you won’t regret it unless you eat the whole thing yourself.

Frenchify Your Weekend with This Sweet and Savory Fig Tart

Weekend Recipe: Warm, Wonderful Tartiflette (and a Tip for Your Next Paris Trip)

O Camembert, O Camembert !

As always, mes chères et chers, thank you for being here and for being WONDERFUL. I am so happy here with you, telling stories and giggling a little bit, and exchanging ideas and recipes. Your support means a lot, whether that’s reading, commenting, subscribing or sharing. MERCI MERCI !

Bon week-end et prenez soin de vous (Happy weekend and take care of yourselves),

Karen